Barkhor

Barkhor, known as the “middle path” of Kora, is one of three sacred circumambulation routes in Lhasa, offering visitors an intimate glimpse into Tibetan spirituality and culture. This middle path circles Jokhang Temple, Tibet’s holiest site, and is constantly alive with thousands of pilgrims, monks, and travelers immersing themselves in the spiritual atmosphere. As you walk, you’ll witness pilgrims from all across Tibet and other Tibetan regions of China, some prostrating along the path in profound devotion. The air is filled with the soothing scent of incense, and the smiles of locals offer a rare escape from the modern world’s hustle.

Barkhor Street market is also a vibrant hub of local commerce, lined with hundreds of small shops selling traditional Tibetan goods, handicrafts, and souvenirs, making it a perfect place to find unique keepsakes. Exploring Barkhor is best done independently, allowing you to blend into the ebb and flow of pilgrims and discover the path’s significance at your own pace.

As you walk, it’s customary to follow the clockwise direction of the pilgrims—a small gesture that reflects respect for local traditions and makes for a more harmonious experience. Along the way, you’ll pass various small temples and historic buildings, each with its own story to tell.

Jokhang Temple, the spiritual centerpiece of Barkhor, was constructed during the reign of King Songtsen Gampo to house a precious Buddha statue depicting the Buddha at age twelve, brought by a Nepalese princess as part of her marriage dowry. After the king’s death, Princess Wencheng, also married to Songtsen Gampo, swapped the statue to protect her own dowry—a statue of the Buddha at the moment of attaining Nirvana. This statue remains a central object of veneration within the temple.

In front of the temple, you’ll see a historic stone stele erected in 1793 to commemorate victims of a smallpox epidemic. Beside it stands a famous willow tree, said to have been planted by Princess Wencheng, which locals call the “Hair of Jowo” in honor of the temple’s Buddha statue. A nearby stone pillar commemorates the Sino-Tibetan treaty of alliance signed in 822 AD, underscoring the region’s rich historical legacy.

Walking the Barkhor is a sensory experience: the scent of incense, the sight of devout prostrations, and the rhythm of pilgrims’ steps. There are many alms-seekers and pilgrims moving quickly to complete their circumambulations—a daily practice for some, done in gratitude or in hope of blessings.

Barkhor is also home to several small temples, each reflecting a different school of Tibetan Buddhism, and numerous houses of noble Tibetan families. A hidden gem lies at the very center of Barkhor Street, where an old, quieter structure offers a place for quiet contemplation amidst the vibrant atmosphere.

As you walk the Barkhor, you’re not just exploring a street but engaging in a tradition that connects past and present. Remember to respect the people and the space, recognizing the deep spiritual significance that Barkhor holds for Tibetans.

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