The 12th-century Kagyud hermitage of Drakkar, also known as Chakar, is renowned for being the retreat where the 11th-century Tibetan yogi and poet Milarepa meditated for nine years in two caves. Nestled high on cliffs overlooking the Dzongkhar–Kyirong road, 34 km south of Dzongkhar, the site includes a collection of retreat residences and chapels. Milarepa’s hometown is nearby, close to Tsarong (Zalung) village. At the time of the research, renovations were underway, and the site housed 20 nuns.

Reaching the main shrines requires a climb of approximately 350 vertical meters via concrete steps. About halfway up, a path to the left leads to the cave where Milarepa spent three years in retreat, while continuing upward takes you to the main cave where he spent an additional six years. This main cave features a small inner chamber containing his stone staff and footprint. To the right, visitors will find a recently renovated assembly hall, and a small kora behind the hall leads to a viewpoint overlooking the valley. Plan for around 2½ hours for the round trip.

Milarepa’s birthplace is located in the village of Tsarong, nestled in the picturesque region of Tibet. Renowned as one of the most significant figures in Tibetan Buddhism, Milarepa was born in the 11th century to a family of farmers. His early life was marked by tragedy and transformation, as he faced considerable hardships, including the death of his father and the subsequent loss of his inheritance to relatives.

This tumultuous beginning led him on a profound spiritual journey, ultimately leading him to become a great yogi and poet. The village offers a glimpse into his humble origins, surrounded by the stunning natural beauty of the Himalayas. Today, it attracts pilgrims and spiritual seekers eager to connect with the essence of Milarepa’s teachings, which emphasize compassion, resilience, and the pursuit of enlightenment. The site serves as a reminder of Milarepa’s remarkable transformation from a troubled youth to a revered spiritual master.

Ralung Monastery (Wylie: ra lung dgon), situated in the Tsang region of western Tibet, south of Karo Pass, serves as the traditional seat of the Drukpa lineage of Tibetan Buddhism. Founded in 1180 by Tsangpa Gyare, the first Gyalwang Drukpa and a disciple of Lingje Répa, Ralung is one of Tibet’s holiest sites. It marks the origin of the Dugpa school of red-hat monks, which remains influential in Southern, Northern, and Eastern Tibet, as well as in Bhutan, where the nation derives its name from this prominent sect. The head monastery, Ralung-til, is encircled by mountains, symbolizing the heart of a lotus. Nestled in present-day Gyantse County, it offers a stunning backdrop of towering peaks, including Gyetong Soksum and Jangzang Lhamo.

Notably, the monastery was home to the first Zhabdrung Rinpoche, Ngawang Namgyal, the 18th abbot, who united Bhutan’s warring valleys and established its enduring dual government system.

Samyé Monastery, established in the 8th century, is the first Buddhist monastery in Tibet and a vital center for Vajrayana teachings. Founded by King Trisong Detsen with the guidance of Padmasambhava and Yeshe Tsogyal, the monastery combines Indian and Tibetan architectural styles, featuring a unique mandala layout. Samyé serves as a historical and spiritual hub, where numerous renowned practices and teachings were transmitted. The monastery continues to attract practitioners and visitors, embodying the rich heritage of Tibetan Buddhism and its enduring traditions.

Chimphu (Wyl. mchims phu) is a prominent mountain located above Samyé Monastery, known for its numerous retreat caves and huts. Today, it continues to serve as a site for practitioners engaging in long-term retreats. At the time of Samyé Monastery’s founding, King Trisong Detsen requested Padmasambhava to reveal the mandala of Vajrayana teachings within Chimphu’s caves. This momentous event was attended by twenty-five disciples, including King Trisong Detsen, Yeshe Tsogyal, and Vairotsana. Of these, nine disciples achieved significant siddhis by diligently practicing the sadhanas imparted by Padmasambhava, solidifying Chimphu’s importance in Tibetan Buddhist history.

Zangri Kangmar is a revered meditation cave complex situated east of the modern town of Zangri in central Tibet, known for its significant association with Machik Labdron, a prominent figure in Tibetan Buddhism. This site played a crucial role in the transmission of Chod teachings, a spiritual practice focused on the nature of existence and self-liberation.

Today, Zangri Kangmar stands as an important pilgrimage destination, attracting practitioners and devotees from around the world. The complex features a two-story temple that houses sacred relics of Machik Labdron, honoring her profound contributions to Tibetan spirituality. Zangri Kangmar embodies the rich historical and spiritual heritage associated with Machik’s transformative teachings, making it a vital center for spiritual seekers.

Drak Yangzom and Dzong Kumbum are significant Buddhist hermitages in Tibet, located 150 km from Lhasa at elevations of 4,470 meters and 4,724 meters above sea level, respectively. Drak Yangzom features two expansive caverns where Guru Rinpoche and other yogi masters meditated, renowned for their bizarre rock formations, stalagmites, and stalactites.

The scenic hiking route from the nunnery’s foothill to Drak Yangzom spans about 4 km, taking approximately 3 hours uphill and 1.5 hours downhill, offering stunning views of the Yarlung Tsangpo Valley. Across the valley, Dzong Kumbum, less narrow but with an extensive cave system, is noted as the principal meditation site for Guru Rinpoche and Kadol Yeshi Tsogyal. The site includes a complex of three caves, with the longest extending nearly one kilometer. Dzong Kumbum is one of Tibet’s holiest locations, attracting local pilgrims and tourists alike.

Drak Yerpa Hermitage, situated about 30km northeast of Lhasa, is one of Ü’s most sacred cave retreats, particularly for those interested in Tibetan Buddhism. This site, perched at an elevation of 4,400m, provides stunning views and is a perfect full-day excursion coupled with a visit to Ganden Monastery. Many eminent figures like Guru Rinpoche and Atisha (Jowo-je) have meditated here, with King Songtsen Gampo establishing the first retreat.

Once the site of the Yerpa Drubde Monastery, the area served as the summer residence for Lhasa’s Gyutö College. Though destroyed in 1959, monks have gradually returned, despite strict governmental controls. Visitors can explore the site by taking the left branch of the stairway from the car park. Notable caves include the Rigsum Gompo Cave and Demdril Drubpuk, where Atisha meditated. Pilgrims are drawn to stone footprints attributed to Yeshe Tsogyel and the fifth Dalai Lama.

The Jamkhang chapel features a striking two-story Jampa statue, flanked by Chana Dorje, Namse, and Tamdrin. Ascending to the Drubthub-puk offers views of the Jampa statue and the Dalai Lama’s quarters. Further exploration reveals the Chögyal-puk, containing a thousand-armed Chenresig statue. Another highlight is Lhalung-puk, where Lhalung Pelde meditated after assassinating King Langdharma.

Dawa-puk (Moon Cave) holds particular significance, as Guru Rinpoche reportedly meditated there for seven years. Below the main caves, Neten Lhakhang marks where the 16 arhats were first worshipped, and Atisha taught nearby. Walking around Yerpa Lhari, adorned with prayer flags, offers a unique spiritual experience.

Higher up the cliff face are more caves and retreats, ideal for those with time for hiking, including a half-day high kora. The pilgrim guesthouse provides basic food and accommodations. In September, the Yerpa Tsechu festival features a grand thangka unveiling and cham dances. Access to Drak Yerpa is via a road from Lhasa crossing the Ngachen-la at 3980m, providing a scenic biking route.